Either access the fixture from the attic and add bracing from above, or consider buying or building a decorative square out of plywood (with trim), then fastening the plate directly to the ceiling. For remodeling work, you have two choices.
#Wiring a ceiling fan with light and remote control install
Install bracing between truss sections (either a standard 2x4 or sliding metal bracing works fine) and then mount a ceiling fan-approved electrical box directly to the bracing. On new construction this shouldn’t be a problem. If a heavy fan (more than 35 pounds) is mounted improperly, there’s a good possibility your air circulation could come to a crashing halt. If you only have 12-2 wire available, consider installing a ceiling fan with remote control dimmer/ fan speed, which only requires standard 12-2 wire.Ĭeiling fans have an inherent amount of wobble. The main obstacle to installing an adjustable switch is the electrical run: Standard lighting or fans require 12-2 wire, and adjustable switches require 12-3 wire (14-gauge wire can also be used). If you’re installing a ceiling fan in a new construction setting, consider using an adjustable dimmer and fan speed wall switch. The old fashioned fans with pull chains to adjust speed and light settings have no place in standard ceilings, much less cathedral or hard-to-access ceilings. Here are some tips for getting the most out of that great whirlybird in the sky. Routine ceiling fan installation can be fairly simple, but there are some common oversights that plague even experienced DIYers. They can also be a godsend for circulating the stale air that can accumulate at the cabin during long absences … or for dissipating the unique air quality issues that can arise while frying up a big batch of bacon for a cabin-full of Sunday morning guests. Installed and wired properly, ceiling fans increase heating and cooling efficiency while adding a touch of character to nondescript ceilings.